Thursday, April 11, 2013

South African Travels, Day 6

What do an eland baby and an adult rhino have in common? Scroll to find out!

Today marked the first day that we were able to sleep in a little. Breakfast was at 7:30, so sleeping in until 6:15 was fantastic. We had a pretty casual morning, since the only thing planned for the day was going to another game farm nearby and working on a few animals there.

We loaded up in our van and made the short trek over to the game farm. On the agenda today was removing a porcupine quill from a sable's ear, tending to a wound on a giraffe's chest, and redressing a pretty bad wound on a baby eland's hindquarters. The farm we arrived at was, in keeping with the theme, just beautiful. It even had the typical African tree everyone pictures when thinking about Africa:

Gorgeous

Paved road through property

S t r e t c h into the tops of the trees!
There were several houses planted throughout the farm, a couple of which were for sale, meaning that I could go live over there and just watch the farm's zebras, waterbuck, wildebeest, giraffes, sables, and elands go about their lives. I wonder how Fiona and Romeo would react in an encounter with any of these guys... I'm betting Romeo would probably run away while Fiona (tragically) tried to engage them in play.

We started off with the sable. Sables are apparently pretty aggressive, so we had to be careful once it was sedated and down. Something that we learned in class about darting animals is that, if you're going to use a vehicle to approach them to dart them, use something they are familiar with. For instance, if you go to a giraffe farm and the giraffes see golf carts go by all the time, then approaching them in a golf cart isn't going to raise their suspicions too much.

Derik got into the back of one of the farm's trucks, and off they went through the pasture to the herd of sables.

Unsuspecting.
He picked out the one with the quill and darted her. When she finally went down, we raced over to her in the back of our truck.

Ouch!
Stephen performed the "surgery" and removed the quill. Fun fact: sables are one of the only animals that panic less without a blindfold than with. The more you know!

The herd watched on as we messed with one of its members, along with a separate herd of zebra. I really thought they were going to charge over to take her back, but fortunately, they didn't get much closer than this:

Creepers.
The sable was reversed, and she hurried quickly back to her compadres.

Next up was the giraffe, and I will preface this part with saying that giraffes are very sensitive to anesthesia. I have heard of cases where they just would not wake up after surgery, even though everything went well. One of the many good things about wildlife vets is that they can discover ways to combat this sensitivity through experience.

The plan with this giraffe was to dart her, restrain her once she was down by sitting on her neck, and then immediately reverse the sedation. Unfortunately, nature sometimes has its own plans.

The ranch, first of all, was huge, and most of it was covered in grass at least as tall as me, if not taller. There were also heavily forested places that were very scrubby. The giraffe, once darted, took off running and ran through a foresty area, where we lost sight of her. Since time was a factor, we all jumped off the truck and took off on foot to find her.

Like I said, the grass we were walking through was TALL. Rebecca and I paired up and begin the awful process of wading through it. Ticks were definitely at the front of our minds, since the sable had been just covered in them (and we knew they were out there). I saw a couple running up the back of Rebecca's leg at one point and knocked them off, causing the both of us to have a freakout session. We tried to jump from less grassy place to less grassy place, but it was a lost cause. At one point, a branch hooked onto Rebecca's boot in a snake-like manner, and she screamed and started jumping up and down while I screamed "IT'S NOT A SNAKE! IT'S NOT A SNAKE!" Once that was established, we heard something crashing through the grass and looked up to see a red blur about 15 feet from us. Fortunately it was just a dik-dik, but, since there was literally no one else in sight, it caused quite a fright. We wondered what we were going to do if we stumbled upon the giraffe since we had no phones and had no idea where everyone else is.

Shortly after the dik dik, I looked up and realized we were really close to one of the houses on the property, and lo and behold it had a good portion of manicured, mowed lawn around it without a fence separating it from the wilderness. I pointed it out to Rebecca and suggested we make a break for it. We had to cross through some nasty looking shrubbery to get to it, but we ran and jumped and landed in the yard, furiously brushing ourselves off while going "Eww eww ewww are they all over me?!?!" In the process I looked up and noticed four women sitting on the back porch of the house having tea, all watching us. I'm sure we were a sight- two girls appearing out of the middle of the African bush that very obviously weren't meant to be out in it. I murmured to Rebecca something like "Great, we have an audience", and she, being less anti-social than I, looked up and said "Hi!" The women all laughed and returned the greeting. Rebecca apologized and one of them said something like "No worries, go on about your business". With a sigh, we turned and waded back into the sea of grass.

We did end up finding some blood that looked fresh, and we tried tracking it, but to no avail. About 20 - 30 minutes after setting out on foot, Louis and Dr. Logan appeared in a truck to pick up the searchers. After picking us up, they headed for Heath, who took this totally legit picture:

Just conversing about giraffe blood
I love how every vehicle in Africa is an off-roader, whether made for it or not.

The giraffe had been found, but it was too late. She had gone over by the lake on the property and gone down in the tall grass, rendering her virtually invisible, except to maybe a bird. It was awful and incredibly sad to have lost her. I think Derik took it the hardest. The owners were very understanding; they knew that wild animals are very difficult to work with medically and this kind of thing happens, unfortunately. We took a small break where no one said much of anything, but then we had to finish up our job on the farm.

Our final patient was the baby eland. About a week before, Derik had gone out to the farm to check out the eland because it had a huge wound on its hindquarters, caused by ticks. I won't include any pictures because they are quite graphic, but to give you an idea- Derik had already treated it the week before, and it still looked like something out of a zombie movie. Even so, he said it looked 100% better than when he had first seen it. Poor eland.

Getting to the baby was something of a feat, as the adult elands were quite suspicious of us after watching us drive around with the sables earlier. The baby was darted, but it did not want to go down. We drove back and forth, trying to keep it contained to one part of the property, but ultimately we had to get out and circle it (once it was separated from the adults) and then Stephen tackled it as it ran at him, effectively catching it.

It was loaded up on the back of a truck so that its wound could be cleaned and redressed while it was monitored. I got to listen to its heart while it was back there- I felt like such a vet.

Dr. Kristin Burlingame, BS
After it was treated, it was carried off to a grassy spot, and I was tasked with spraying down all of the ticks on it- it was completely covered, like the sable.

Tick pictures not included because ain't nobody want to see that
I then stepped back and off to the side, mildly watching as Derik asked who was going to give it the reversal injection intro-veinously. Suddenly, he looked up at me and said, 'You are!" I made a face like o.O and he was like, you can do it! So then he, Rebecca, and Pat proceeded to show me how to give an IV injection, and I successfully performed my first IV injection and my second injection ever on an eland.

So a baby eland and an adult rhino = my first IV and IM injections, respectively. Now you know.

Fun (embarrassing) story: while I was crouched over the eland preparing for the injection, I looked down and saw a tick running up my hand. I bit out a bad word and swung my hand violently, hitting Derik in the process, who was crouched next to me. Rebecca said "Well, if they thought you were a nice girl before, now they know better." If you know me, you know this is the story of my life. Being in a foreign country mattered not. Sigh.

Getting prepared to peace out
Somehow the entire day passed while we were at the game farm. I think we finished up out there around 4:00. Surprisingly, no one seemed to mind or realize that we had forgotten about lunch; there was just too much going on. We loaded up and headed back home.

Since we had an earlier night, we got to enjoy the grounds a little more. I went up the hill to the "Africa House", a building housing computers and most of our male participants dormitory style, and got on the internet for the first time while sitting on the veranda in front of it, sipping wine and listening to crickets as night fell. After it got dark, I made my way back to the dining area. It was pitch black out to my right, and as I was walking, I heard an animal snort at me out in the dark, which increased my walking speed quite a bit. I made it back safely and hung out with the group during dinner, including Michelle's two little girls, who thought it would be great fun to play matchmaker with me since I am single (lol). Later that evening, Derik, Rebecca and I rode into Nelspruit to enjoy the night life, but everything was closed... apparently they don't appreciate Thursday nights there like we do here.

Our next day promised adventures with one of the animals I was most excited to work with- read on if you'd like to find out which!



Photo credit: the first 3 pictures belong to me; 1st sable pic, 3rd sable pic, truck pic and last picture belong to Heath Culp of Poodledog productions, and 2nd sable pic and 1st two eland pics belong to Dr. Jim Derr.

Wednesday, April 10, 2013

South African Travels, Day 5

When I look back over how early I woke up the last two days, it makes me laugh- if only because today, I had to wake up at 3:45 to be ready to go by 4:30 AM. That hour later certainly looks pretty good right now!

We all got up, got ready, and went to breakfast. At 4:30, we loaded up the bus (minus our 3 people who went back to Lydenburg) and headed to Kruger National Park (side note: the bus was much more comfortable with the extra space!).

On the way, when it was starting to get a little lighter outside, we suddenly stopped on a bridge. I thought we were just taking in the serene view of the water and the mountains, with the electric backdrop of the houses around, in the early morning light.

So peaceful
Then, I looked over the bridge to a sandbar in the water.


I wonder if they are hungry hungry.

There were hippos. And a crocodile. And I thought the bayous in Katy were filled with scary things? (PS, they are- there are alligators and snakes).

We continued on and got into the park shortly before the sun came up, which meant that a lot of animals were out enjoying the cool morning and looking for breakfast.

Impalas hanging out
As the rainy season was going on, the vegetation was lush, which made finding critters a bit harder.

There could be anything out there...
As we drove around a corner, we were met by several impalas that seemed to be running for their lives. We stopped, watching them disappear into the brush, wondering if something was chasing them. Suddenly, Poemie, our driver, shouted "Wild dogs! Wild dogs!" and hit he accelerator, charging further down the road.

There are only about 300 wild dogs left in the wild. They are incredibly rare to see, which is the reason for his excitement. Spoiler alert: we ended up seeing about 30 today. Amazing.

There were four standing in an open space right next to the road. We parked and turned the engine off and just watched them for a while.

What do you hear with those big ears?
Beautiful

What are you looking at?
Suddenly, some invisible cue was given, and they were off on the hunt:

Oppan border collie style
We drove back to where we had seen the impalas, and we saw the dogs run by, but they disappeared back into the brush. We headed in the direction they had gone and came upon these guys:

Just some grass hanging out of my mouth, nothing to see here
These are Cape buffalo. They may look docile, but these guys are some of the meanest guys on the planet. They have been known to stalk people hunting them, even if they are injured. Go to YouTube and watch "Battle at Kruger" and you will see how persistent they are (you will also see lionesses fight over a buffalo calf with a crocodile). We wondered if we were going to see another battle at Kruger, but this time between the buffalo and the dogs.

The buffalo moved on, and we went back to where we had last seen the wild dogs. They were back, but we had missed their kill. They had gotten an impala and were enjoying being full/gnawing on the skull. And they did NOT care about all of the cars and people watching them.

Just our every day routine
Nom nom nom

Hanging out with me

 We eventually moved down the road and found our buffalo hanging out how they do:

So picturesque...

Sup.
We continued on and stumbled upon more impala (a common theme in Kruger). But suddenly, elephants!

You picked the wrong neighborhood

Back off!

The elephant above kind of circled around us, and, even in a van, I was very aware of her power should she decide she no longer wanted us so close. Fortunately, after giving us a few hard looks, she disappeared into the trees.

Throughout the trip, we stopped for many birds. I have a ton of pictures of them, which I am not going to upload here. But, there are many beautiful species living on that great continent that were certainly fun to see. During one of our many bird stops, another jeep pulled up next to us, and a girl asked what we were looking at. Someone replied, "Birds", to which she responded, "Birds?!" and then drove off. Oh well.

We saw many zebra, including this cute guy:

Mommy said don't talk to strangers...
Even more impala:
Excellent camouflage skills
 This rhino:
Hey guys, how's it going?
 Wildebeest (my favorite):

Classic livestock pose

Sleepy heads

And kudu, but I'll save them for later. We stopped at a little rest area that had shops and bathrooms, and it was there that I made a discovery. In Texas, we have pigeons and crows pilfering our picnic tables. In Africa, they have these:

Bad Zazu!

We left there and came upon giraffes:

Being one with the trees

More kudu:

My, what big ears you have!

And waterbuck (Rebecca decided these animals had no business in Africa due to the white target they have on their butts):

Pretty boy
We then arrived at a look out point in the park where you could get out and take pictures of the fantastic views:

"NAAAANTS INGONYAMAAAAA!"

 Upon leaving the look-out, we stumbled upon these fun looking vervets:

I think the middle one is considering using the top one's tail as a swing
But then, a little bit further, the decision makers of the jungle:


Terrifying
 I'm serious, a group of baboons is called a "congress". Lololol.

This guy is really cool, so I'm including him here:

So noble
And who doesn't want to see a hippo out of water? Me, unless I'm in the safety of a vehicle.

I'm like 'em chunky.
We ran into more giraffes, zebras, and elephants, but I'm starting to fear that blogger may call me on a picture limit here. So, if you would like to see more of those, just ask :)

As the day progressed and it got later, our attention was drawn to the fact that if we were not outside the park when it closed, we would be spending the night there. We decided to be a little speedier and only stop for "worthy" animals, such as these guys:

Sunning.
It was amazing to me how whenever we found crocodiles, there were usually hippos nearby, and vice versa.

But our plans to go quickly were thwarted by these jerks, who had to hang out in the middle of the road:

Just sit still while I pick bugs off you (I would be a terrible candidate)
These baboons got close- too close. One was right outside the window. I shut my window, not wanting to lose my camera/face.

It wouldn't have been a success if we had not seen any Pumbas:

Slimy yet satisfying.
We managed to get out of the park before it closed, where we pulled over and had a bathroom break at the facilities. There was a hog of some sort- either a warthog or a bush pig- hanging out by the gate, because apparently someone had thrown an apple core near the fence. His desperate squeaks and squeaks as he begged for the apple core were both hilarious and gut-wrenching. I just wanted to feed him!

We got back to the farm shortly before dinner, where we learned that the other party was just leaving Lydenburg. They did not get back until maybe 10:45 PM. Dr. Logan and I waited up for them, and when they finally arrived, they were beat. We played a little with Wallace, the resident Scottie, then went to bed, ready for another day of work tomorrow.

What do an eland baby and an adult rhino have in common? Stay tuned to find out!

South African Travels, Day 4

Today was another early day, but, fortunately for me, I slept through the night. We met at 5:30 AM again for breakfast before heading out for Lydenburg, a city in Mpumalanga that was about an hour and a half away from our place in Nelspruit.

On the way
The country was beautiful, but the road... not so much. I'm not sure we missed many potholes, which was made much worse by the fact that we were probably driving about 60 MPH through them. The van pitched around the road as it tried to dodge holes and other vehicles... it was terrifying, to say the least. One of our vets road with Derik in his truck, and apparently they took the much better scenic road up through the mountains. Our driver had been told that the road was impassible that morning due to fog, so we were stuck being bounced everywhere. We did, however, get to stop for a quick break in a very picturesque town... no idea what it was called.

When we arrived at our destination, I could not believe my eyes. Sprawling before me was one of the most beautiful pieces of land I have ever seen. There were hay fields butting up against wild lands that climbed up to cliffs overlooking the valley. There was a river, complete with a waterfall, cutting through the middle. The main house was surrounded by these beautiful pine trees that had needles hanging down in clusters.

Pretty pine trees

Suffice it to say, I found what my little slice of heaven will look like one day. Should Heaven be divided up in slices, of course.

We unloaded from our van at the main house. It no longer has anyone living in it, nor do any of the other houses on the land, due to the South African government taking it over to turn the whole place into farm plots. So sad. Such a waste. Our purpose there was to sedate and move every animal on the property to other game farms, as the government would not take care of them.

We started with 5 Impala (2 males, 2 females, and a baby) that were enclosed in the area with the pine trees and main house. Derik, possibly the best shot in the world, would crouch down, line up his shot, and somehow manage to dart each Impala, one by one, as they ran through the trees. We did this one at a time; an Impala would be darted, we'd wait for it to go down, then we would run over, pick it up, carry it to the trailer, put protectors over its horns (to protect the other Impalas from them), reverse the sedation, and load it into the front compartment of the trailer.

Carrying Impala
At first, everything was going smoothly, although the Impala become increasingly agitated as we moved them. Unfortunately, one of the females got too flighty and ran head-first into a fence- breaking her neck. Everyone was really upset to have lost one, especially when it was discovered that she was the mother of the baby. Derik was confident that the baby was old enough to be weaned, however, so hopefully it was old enough to survive. The men at the farm (who had lived there before being moved, I think) that were watching us move the animals had the dead Impala processed so quickly that I did not even know it was done until I looked over and saw it. Nothing goes to waste.

We got the other 4 Impala loaded without incident, and then we had to move on to two different groups of Blesebok out in the hay pastures- one group of 5 and one of 3. Derik got into a helicopter with Ben (possibly the best pilot in the world) and darted them from the air while we collected them with the help of trucks. When I first saw Ben fly, I thought I was going to throw up. He would be going one way and then suddenly swing the other way while the momentum kept him going the first way for a few seconds; he would hurtle along mere feet off the ground; he would fly in directions that I did not think were possible according to the laws of physics; it was insane. And all the time, Derik was hanging out the side of the helicopter with his dart gun, not missing his targets, hanging in by a single strap.


Seriously, the world's most incredible people live in South Africa.

Derik darting from the air


Heading out to collect Blesebok

Riding with sedated Blesebok


Once we got these guys loaded, it was time to move onto the big guns. In class the day before, we learned about something called a "net boma"- basically, it is this big elaborate net system that a capture team strategically sets up so that it is invisible to the animals. A helicopter collects and drives the animals into the boma, sounds a siren, and two people run towards each other with the first set of walls, trying to get it closed before the animals can run back out. Different bomas work different ways- some are set up so that the helicopter drives the animals straight into a trailer, some have a series of walls that are closed, and some, like ours, allow the helicopter to drive animals into nets, where they are trapped until we can get to them, sedate them, and untangle them.

We originally were supposed to be capturing a herd of black wildebeest, but the helicopter pilot was having trouble cutting them away from a group of zebra that apparently wanted to go with them. The decision was made instead to capture a small herd of Blesebok first. Since there were only a few, my group did not get to participate in catching them. We waited for the black wildebeest instead. It was at this time, however, that a zebra stallion became a problem- apparently he was suffering an identity crisis and thought he belonged with the wildebeest. As it would be a horrifically bad idea to capture a zebra in a net, it was decided that Derik would dart the zebra from the air and we would ride out and pick it up to transport it by itself.

At least it was a "tamed" zebra
Once the zebra was removed, we resumed our positions waiting in the boma for the siren to sound. The helicopter took off, and we braced ourselves. But then, it came back, and it was decided that Heath, our photographer, would go up in it to take pictures and video:

Sorting animals by helicopter
My precious

The wildebeest were again not cooperating, so they decided to drive more Blesebok in, instead- which was fine with me, because I had heard many tales about the wildebeest not having the best of tempers.

We got our photographer back before, however, which was great- because for the second round we had lost several people (not tragically, they were just doing other things), so there were many opportunities for pictures to be taken that we could go back and blackmail people with later. This time, there were at least 12 Blesebok run into the nets. I remember watching them all sprint by from my hiding place and thinking "Oh ****" as I realized how many we had.

The siren went off, the runners went to close the curtain, and we were off to capture some largish animals with horns that were panicked and trapped. My partner, Pat, grabbed a huge guy and told me that he had it, I could "go catch the baby over there". I immediately agreed that perhaps a baby would be more my speed, and I went into the net to grab it. Of course, there were several other adults trapped around it that I had to dodge while I tried to get my hands on the squirming little gal. At one point, one of them was definitely breathing on the back of my neck- fortunately it had been sedated and therefore did not choose to make use of its horns or teeth.

Dr. Culp sedating mine while I watch out for Dr. Brown's
Dr. Derr helping me hold her down!

Let me tell you: I may have only had a baby, but those 5 minutes that I wrestled that baby were some of the longest moments of my life. When Dr. Culp went to sedate her, she jumped, and not very much of the sedative went in. Dr. Derr then came over to give her the rest of the injection and attempt to help me hold her so that I could untangle her from the net. She was jumping and head butting and scrambling, all things that made the process quite difficult. I somehow managed to get her out, but then she was like GAME ON I'M OUT OF HERE. And I was NOT going to be the one person who lost their grip on their animal, especially when mine was merely a baby. There were a couple of times that she slipped out of my grasp, but I was back on her faster than lightning. At one point I had my arms wrapped around her neck, holding her up against me.

I finally got a good enough grip on her to where she was standing semi-quietly, and Cobus walked over and said, "Do you have her?" At that point she chose to leap straight up in the air, taking me with her. He merely murmured "No you do not" and then walked over and grabbed her other side. Together we walked her to the trailer, where one of the helpers took over.

Looking back, I think she struggled more than any of the bigger ones. In comparison, at least, they all seemed to walk pretty quietly. Figures!

Afterwards, I was shaking from the exertion and covered in blood from the injections, so much so that one of the vets asked me if I had been performing necropsies. The gloves that Cobus had let me borrow were ruined, and my shirt and arms were coated. But it was simply awesome getting to participate in something like that.

As evening approached, the wildebeest got smart and hid from the helicopter in the trees. Cobus decided that it would soon be too dark to be able to do much else, so our group loaded up to head back home, while Derik, Ben, and a few other guys holed up in one of the abandoned houses for the night.

We took the scenic mountain road on the way back and were treated to a gorgeous storm cloud in the distance:

Not unlike Texas

Cool bands of color through the cloud


A good part of our journey home was spent under that cloud, in the storm, but the views that we could see before it got dark were awesome. I saw the most beautiful bolt of lightning from high up in the mountains looking over a city. It was like something out of National Geographic.

At one point, we did get caught in very thick fog on the way back- so thick that we could not see the road or the car in front of us- and it was quite scary. But it only lasted for a couple minutes, and then we were out of it.

I went straight to bed without dinner that night, because I was so exhausted. It had been much cooler at our location that day than it had been with the rhino the day before, but it was also a lot more physically exerting. It was decided that Rebecca, Stephen, and Kim would ride with Cobus back to Lydenburg the next day to work on capturing the remaining animals, while the rest of us went to Kruger National Park to see the wildlife. I passed out and slept straight through another storm... which is saying something, since I never sleep through storms anymore after the tornado of last year!

Tomorrow will bring some exciting sights- stay tuned!

*All pictures except the first were taken by Heath Culp of Poodledog Productions